Author Topic: Any "how to" pics or videos for replacing front and rear break pads 2012 K600GTL  (Read 1198 times)

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Offlinemytoy

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  • 12' K1600GTL Royal Metallic Blue
    Its time to change my break pads, Im good with figuring things out however I want it to be right and be safe. Would love to see some step by step instructions  tools needed and things to watch out for. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Offlinee7navy1999

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      Replacing the pads is exactly like replacing pads on a car.  Maybe watch a you tube of replacing disk brake pads on most any car.  make sure you know the torques when putting the bolts back into place

      Tools:
      -New pads with pad anti noise silicone compound (little squeeze tube)
      -Torques tips to fit the caliper mounting bolts and reservoirs covers
      plastic bags, tape to protect painted parts.  BRAKE FLUID IS A GREAT PAINT REMOVER!!! Beware.  Even a little on your hands can leave nasty finger marks into your paint over time
      -Dot4 brake fluid (fresh) 1 small bottle should be plenty but two if you want to do a really stellar job
      -plastic bottle with a 6"-12" long clear plastic hose
      -Piece of wood to push/leverage old pads to near max opening position...this is where it is tricky, when you push/pry open the old pads the fluid behind the cylinders has to go somewhere.  Sometimes I just use a flat screwdriver blade to pry the pads/cylinders apart as they are toast anyway.  You have to watch the reservoirs closely to make certain they do not overflow and make a mess.  Brake fluid is a great paint remover
      - use the plastic bottle and hose to suck out old fluid as the reservoirs fill up
      -Take a few pics in case you forget how things go back together
      -remove old pads and install new ones just backwards steps from removing the old ones.  Don't forget to add the anti squeal paste between the pad and the cylinder
      -After pads are in-place and remounted and all bottles torqued..suck out as much old fluid as you can from the reservoirs. 
      -Add new fluid into reservoirs and begin bleeding air from front and rear ...your choice as to which one to do first.  I do rear first usually...this is just like bleeding air in car breaks.  open bleed valve at caliper...pump..close bleed valve...release and fill.  over and over again.   pump...fill using the bleed valve at the caliper ...Just like bleeding brakes both drum and disk on a car or truck. 


      When all finished wash with water and soap just in-case you got some fluid onto your paint

      Please..this is just a brief summary of a pad change...watch most any car disk pad you-tube and you will pick up what I may have left out of is unclear to you

      For the brake fluid bleed down I have a really nifty trick that makes it near impossible to introduce air into you system.  AIR IS YOUR ENEMY.  Even the most tiny bubbles.  DO NOT SHAKE YOUR FRESH BRAKE FLUID and DO not leave the lid off for more than a few minutes...it absorbes water from the atmosphere.  Moisture is BAD NEWS as well


      OfflineFP-NLD

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        Just put two files in the download section: Replacing front brake pads and Replacing rear brake pads; according to the BMW repair manual.
        Frank (NLD),             BMW K1600 GT Red (2011); top case w/brakelight, comfort package, safety package, F2P, black Wunderlich bars, PDM60, Autocom SPA  |  Other bike: Moto Guzzi V7 850 California (1975)

        Offlinee7navy1999

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          I forgot: you will need two box end wrenches also that fit the bleed screws on the calipers.  My K16 has two different sizes.  DO NOT USE open end wrenches as they will certainly damage your bleed screw hex

           

          anything